Frome

Jane Rakison shares her must‑visits in Somerset’s oasis of creative indies

Nobody can say they’ve truly ‘done’ Somerset – or even the South West for that matter – if they haven’t been to Frome. A labyrinth of cobbled car‑free lanes takes you uphill, downhill, left into a nook and right into a courtyard, with every inch populated by creatives who – collectively – have kept the big chains at bay.

As one of England’s oldest towns (and one frequently voted the best place to live in the UK) Frome is imbued with a history that’s immortalised in honey‑hued forest marble buildings. Hopelessly romantic to look at, it’s no wonder it’s drawn entrepreneurial visionaries from near and far. Each one’s arrival has been a magnet for the next, to the point at which Frome is now a ferociously independent hub of creativity.

The sheer variety of independent businesses in the town makes it hard to define, yet everything shares a modern‑meets‑tradition vibe where craft, sustainability and artistry collide. Safe to say, it’s worth a visit.

Where to eat

However long you stay, it’s best to arrive early and hungry. Tucked away in a need‑to‑know‑about corner is Rye Bakery where the breakfast/brunch/lunch experience is always a buzzy affair. The renovated 19th‑century church has high ceilings, an organ still in situ and authentic pews. Hot drinks, warm food and posh pastries fly off the counter and include homemade sausage – or veggie – rolls alongside salads, stews and grilled cheese on sourdough. The recipe for its legendary berry‑filled financiers is asked for constantly (and with good reason), but the only secret the team will reveal is that the almonds are roasted.

Projects on the bridge is another breakfast‑to‑lunch favourite. The cosy space is a spot to refuel with speciality coffee and a sticky bun of integrity.

For more substantial eats, check out The High Pavement. As its name suggests, the restaurant is set high above St. Catherine’s (Frome’s main cobbled quarter). It emits all the bustling sounds you’d hope for from a good tapas bar, although the cooking influences extend well beyond Spain into North Africa and the Middle East. Expect dishes jazzed up with preserved lemons, date syrup and dukkah; dip into a little of everything while peering down on the hubbub below.

Frome counts a Japanese izakaya and Mexican taqueria among its foodie destinations. Inoshishi Izakaya is a casual Japanese restaurant for light meals, such as miso soup, wagyu-steak rice bowls and bento boxes, as well as a range of sake. Meanwhile, A Huevo (translation: hell, yeah!) is a taqueria that became so popular during its stint in the monthly The Frome Independent market that it’s now a permanent feature, serving taco fillings such as chicken tinga, three‑bean chilli, and pork pibil. With just a handful of seats it’s worth ordering to‑go.

Outside the centre and towards the railway line, The Station has become a local institution. Here, a group of chefs, sommeliers and entrepreneurs have joined forces at an old train station warehouse to create a community‑focused venue that celebrates independent businesses. Rye Pizzeria is at the heart of it, crafting wood‑fired pizzas adorned with locally sourced toppings, including produce from neighbouring Owen’s Sausages and Hams, which also produces a takeaway classic of its own: pimped hot dogs. Sausages are made and smoked in-house and feature a rotating bill of toppings, from cucumber, sour cream and dill to aioli with coriander. Umami joy is guaranteed. Cheesemonger The Cheese Lord is also in residence at The Station and often holds special events, while Sweet & Wild creates green and grainy traybakes, from seeded breakfast bars to black‑forest brownies. For flavour‑jammed south Indian street food, visit Lungi Babas. Good times are guaranteed at this creative collab of indies, especially at the end‑of‑the‑week get‑togethers when local DJs and musicians pep up the proceedings.

Where to drink

Beyond Rye’s Wine Bar at The Station (which serves a range of natural wines, craft beers and fine ciders), in the centre of town Frome boasts a sassy‑yet‑savvy wine and cheese shop–cum–bar in The Stores. The cheese selection is sourced from as nearby as possible to keep the footprint down. Wine may be less easy to source super locally, but the carefully curated list focuses on regenerative practitioners and classic styles, which are not always the best known but uber delicious regardless, whether New Zealand Pinot Noir or Sicilian Nerello Mascalese.

Up the hill and round the cobbled corner is Palmer Street Bottle, a relaxed bar focused mostly on craft beer and cheese. All the beer on tap is chalked up on one blackboard while another reveals the day’s menu, most of which revolves around the high‑grade dairy products. With a heavy events schedule, it’s the perfect place to pop in for an evening of live music or comedy. If beer isn’t your thing, rest assured the cider, wine and extensive range of NoLos have you covered.

Halfway up Catherine Hill, Still Life Gin is a tiny distillery where visitors can craft their own gin while, next door, Moo and Two deals in speciality coffee and directly sourced loose‑leaf teas. Locals like to start the day with a hot brew and bake while perched on Moo’s wooden benches, then end the day at Hydeaway, the town’s underground speakeasy that handcrafts creative cocktails. Its mish‑mash of vintage furniture and muted lighting creeping through retro silk lampshades make it an atmospheric place to sink into the evening.

Where to shop

This small Somerset town is proof there’s a different way to shop. Its collection of maverick, artistic and quirky stores provide something of an Aladdin’s cave for shoppers and visitors, whether they’re looking for vintage clothing, records, swanky pet gear or artisanal ceramics.

At the very top of the hill are two individually minded stores with strong personalities all their own. Hung, Drawn, Quoted on Catherine Street is a refreshing gift store with a tongue‑in‑cheek poke at the world’s current affairs protagonists – think Trump and The Daily Mail ‑ through prints, mugs, tote bags and appliqué. Kobi & Teal is a haven for fans of beautiful design: the shop, gallery and studio are filled with artwork and objects from UK designers and makers.

Further down the hill, Frome Hardware is a utility-homeware-lover’s paradise with Openil knives, household brushes for all those tasks you never knew you needed to do, and an in‑house laser-cutting workshop.

Seed also has a passion for British makers, billing itself as the home of contemporary craft. Its jewellery shines a light on emerging local designers while its homewares cover everything from smellies to tableware, plus a separate gallery sells limited edition prints and original sculptures.

Next door is one of Frome’s three luscious plant shops. Bramble & Wild is a florist and gift store that grows its own flowers throughout the summer months. Nearby Pilea is a verdant jungle with unique houseplants in all sizes, which spill out onto the cobbled street. The newest kid on the block, Moss Archives, can be found on medieval Cheap Street (fun fact: it’s the only street in England with a leat running down the middle of it). It identifies more as a ‘nature shop’ than a plant store as it also sells a very tactile and colourful range of fossils and crystals. Also on Cheap Street is Neighbour, a swoonworthy lifestyle store filled with carefully curated pieces. There’s no prejudice here: whether it’s a vintage find or new homeware, if it’s gorgeous, it’s in.

Another favourite on this street is Winstone’s, the town’s award‑winning independent bookshop, while Sherlock & Pages is a relatively new bookshop on St Catherine’s cobbles.

One of the very best times to get under the skin of Frome is on The Frome Independent day, a street market that takes place on the first Sunday of every month. Roads are closed while traders, makers, food producers, musicians and street performers reclaim the streets, and a huge vintage market takes over the weekly market site on Market Yard. Everything from clothes and cutlery to garden furniture can be found alongside farmers’ food carts and a DJ blaring out tunes for the children’s disco dancefloor.

Where to stay

Feast on a slice of history at The Archangel, a hotel dating back to the Domesday Book, which boasts bedrooms with dark oak floors and bathrooms filled with eco products. Downstairs, the pub serves food from dawn to dusk. There are connecting rooms (useful if travelling with kids) and even pooch‑friendly rooms – just book in advance.

Four miles to the west of Frome, in the historic village of Mells, The Talbot Inn offers stylish accommodation in airy rooms decorated in a neutral colour palette and featuring log‑filled fireplaces and rolltop baths. Heaven.