Falmouth

Cornwall’s coolest town is a vibrant spot for a weekend away, thanks to its fusion of creative arts, culinary thrills and coastal location. Jo Rees shares the perfect itinerary for three days’ cavorting

Friday

Skip work on the Friday to squeeze every last drop of juice from your weekend in Falmouth. First things first, schedule in a coffee ‘n’ carb pit stop on your way to the South Cornwall spot. It’s easy to justify a detour via Gorse Bakery, hidden in a rural location on the outskirts of Goonhavern. Foundation‑roasted speciality‑grade coffee beans and above‑par pastries deliver a caffeine hit with a side of laminated loveliness. It closes early afternoon, so time your arrival accordingly.

For a place to stay in Falmouth, try St Michaels Resort. Its position overlooking the glassy waters of Gyllyngvase Beach makes a morning beach stroll, swim, yoga session or paddleboarding a cinch.

The hotel’s alfresco oasis of echiums, palms and Mediterranean grasses offers plenty of places to chill outdoors, especially if you book a session in the inside‑outside spa. An icy plunge pool, steaming jacuzzi, wooden sauna and loungers are hidden among the foliage. Then step through glass doors into the South West’s largest hydrotherapy pool, which is bolstered by steam rooms, treatment spaces, a large herbal sauna and heated ceramic beds. Those who feel the need to earn their chill‑out time will appreciate the Health Club, which has a hardcore gym, classes and swimming pool to meet the requirements of even the most committed workout warrior.

Pick your room from a range that includes the private Spa Garden Lodges, which come with outdoor copper bathtubs, or stay in the main body of the hotel in rooms and suites decked out in contemporary Cornish style. Family rooms are available too, or plump for a self‑catering apartment in the hotel’s Liner Building.

With a Friday afternoon gym and spa session in the bag you’ll be ready for cocktails in the bar, followed by dinner at Brasserie on the Bay. This is St Michaels’ main dining spot and it sports a nautical vibe which turns sparkly as the lights are lowered. Visit for a modern Cornish menu of crowd pleasers crafted from local produce.

Saturday

After breakfast at the hotel, hit the town for a day of exploring. The Falmouth shopping experience is quirky and authentic, its streets crammed with indie stores – there’s barely a chain to be found.

Falmouth’s School of Art is well respected and, over the decades, has contributed to the town’s arty vibe as creatives moved to the area to study and then stayed on. As a result, there are some decent galleries and a vibrant cultural scene.

Two good places to find local art are Sailor’s Jail, Falmouth’s alternative art gallery that showcases unusual work from students, and Morgans, a multi‑storey spot that shows a smart curation of high‑end contemporary paintings and ceramics, as well as stocking arts and lifestyle magazines.

For cultural food for the soul, visit The Poly. The arts centre comprises exhibition spaces, cafe, cinema and store, and also runs creative workshops.

The most swoonworthy homewares are to be found at Ondine Ash, The Painted Bird and Cream Cornwall, while Mirri Damer stocks unique contemporary jewellery.

During a morning of mooching you’ll undoubtedly need a coffee. Happily, the town has more than its fair share of spots serving speciality‑grade brews. We rate Beacon Coffee for its ever‑changing roster of roasteries and slick serves, as well as Espressini, Good Vibes Cafe, Dark Pony Coffee and Olfactory Coffee Roasters’ cafe. For coffee with a twist, swing by the retro‑styled Jam, which deals in decent brews and vintage vinyl.

Back on the shopping trail, you’ll find more retro finds in Falmouth’s miscellany of vintage stores. Winkle out quirky treasures at Camelots, Kitty Gubbins (‘trader of all things vintage, antique, peculiar and bizarre’) and Retro Falmouth.

There are loads of options for a late lunch: a carby feast at Stones Bakery, fresh falafel at the Fal Falafel van on The Moor (a BBC Food & Farming Awards winner), or hunt out the Kelp Canteen seafood shack by the harbour. Sabzi is another lovely spot and serves fresh Middle Eastern and Mediterranean salads, hummus and falafel, and has views of the harbour.

While lunching, consider your options for dinner – they’re numerous. For contemporary cooking, Culture boasts three AA rosettes and a Michelin Green Star, or try Restaurant Mine at the Old Brewery Yard for simple‑yet‑refined modern British cooking that champions the local larder. In good weather, sit outdoors in the buzzy courtyard.

To dine by the water’s edge, head to Indidog for its menu of smart casual dishes and cracking cocktails. An outdoor table by the harbour is the insiders’ go‑to. Another lovely coastal dining spot is Water’s Edge restaurant at The Greenbank Hotel, where flavour‑packed creations include locally landed fish given a smart makeover and served with sea views.

Wherever you dine, finish your evening with a nightcap at Beerwolf Books. Part bookshop, part pub, the lively bar is housed in an 18th‑century building with a beer garden out front.

Kernow Wine is another special place to raise a glass. The wine shop‑cum‑bar serves small plates and glasses of vino, has a bottle‑refill service, a wine club and hosts events.

Sunday

Walk the few steps from the hotel to Gylly Beach to start the day with coffee and breakfast at the Gylly Beach Cafe before taking a stomp along the South West Coast Path. Turn right to walk to Maenporth Beach, passing Beach House Falmouth at Swanpool Beach on your way. Call in on your return journey to feast on Falmouth lobster, local mussels and dayboat fish. Or turn left and head, via the Tudor‑built Pendennis Castle, to St Mawes, making the return trip to Falmouth via the little passenger ferry which drops off its day‑tripper cargo in town.

Enjoyed our Falmouth weekender guide? Discover more curated insider’s guides and weekenders across the South West with our travel guides.